Showing posts with label York. Show all posts
Showing posts with label York. Show all posts

Friday, 7 March 2014

Bikes, Burgers, Bunting and Big Shoes - What I did instead of watching the Royal Wedding in 2011

In 2011, the year after guiding 14 cyclists Coast to Coast from Walney to Saltburn (including a Bishop) I was trying to think of another cycling challenge for my friends and myself to do.


Although it's a pretty arbitrary reason to organise a bike ride, I like bike rides that can be explained to non-cyclists. A start and end point they've heard of helps, as in one coast to another, although to be honest as soon as I start talking about cycling, they mostly just go to sleep in a big bed of disinterest.

People who don't cycle are astounded that I can even cycle to the corner shop. They have absolutely no frame of reference. A bit like how people who drive everywhere in a car are absolutely incredulous at any distance further than one end of a car park to another that can be covered on foot. The thing about both cycling and walking, is that you can pretty much go anywhere, if you allow enough time.

Anyway, since I like York Minster and Durham Cathedral, and because they are possibly the two most well known places in this area, I thought cycling between them would be an easy one for people to grasp. The actual ride was going to take place over two days, including an overnight stop in Ingleby Barwick, but the day before the official ride, some of us decided to ride to York Minster for the start.

A bit like with birthdays, where it's sometimes easier to enjoy the day before or the day after, this prelude ride turned out to be maybe better than the ride itself.

Stephen, Mark and I decided to do the pre-ride ride, and part of the reason we were able to do it, was because we got an extra Bank Holiday in 2011 for the Royal Wedding, otherwise we might have just got the train down, and only done the main ride.  

For some reason all our rides seem to involve a stray clergyman / bishop so this time we took Stephen's brother-in-law Dick the Vic. The route to York was about 60 miles. Dick doesn't ride a bike normally, so he'd borrowed one. 3 miles into the ride at Hilton we stopped to put our rain jackets on, and Dick announced that, 3 miles in, this was now his longest ever bike ride, although he does run up stairs a lot. This is going to be a long next 57 miles I thought.

I needn't have worried. As podgy as Stephen, Mark and myself are, Dick is a lean spidery specimen, with hardly any body fat. He made a mockery of any theories anyone might have about how to ride up hills by completely failing to understand how to use the gears on the bike, and riding up the hill incredibly fast in top gear, leaving the rest of us for dead. He just likes to get the hills over with, he said. Don't we all.

Actually the hills only started after Brompton (near Northallerton). There were a couple of big hills to cover during the day, but nothing too serious. My route planning ability was called into question a couple of times by other cyclists we met though. As we crossed the A684 near Northallerton, a thin reed-like cyclist we met said 'Oh, you're not going that way, are you?. It's hilly'. Then further on, we met another cyclist who was running alongside his bike holding it by the saddle. He was wearing tiny cut off running shorts and his disposition was that of a scared man running away from someone in a slasher movie. 'Don't go up there, he said, hilly'. He looked like someone who had spontaneously given up cycling on the spot, and he was taking his bike home to throw it in a skip.

Despite the scaremongering of the locals, we were having a lovely day. Each of the little North Yorkshire villages we rode through was decked out in bunting to celebrate the Royal Wedding, and none was prettier than Felixkirk. By the time we got there, we'd covered around half of our 60 miles, and it was just after lunchtime. We should probably eat something, we thought.

Clearly the pub (The recently refurbished Carpenters Arms) had just finished having some sort of Royal Wedding barbecue, there were big gas barbecues all over the place, but not many customers, we must have just missed the main event.

We went in the pub, ordered some drinks, and before we had chance to look at a menu, the barmaid said 'Oh, we've been doing burgers for the Royal Wedding, we can do you a burger each if you want'. Okay, that'll do, we said. Can we have chips too, we said. She looked puzzled and said she'd include them for free. That'll be £40 please, she said. Bloody hell, that must include the drinks I thought, but No. Blimey £10 each for a burger, I know it's sunny but I didn't realise we were at Wimbledon. Anyway, we went and sat outside in the sun, enjoying our drinks, while they powered up one of the giant barbecues. They chucked 4 slabs of beef on the thing, which didn't look like a tenner's worth each, but never mind, it's sunny, and what could be more English than this?

Once the burgers were cooked, they were brought over on some oversized plates, and they still didn't look much like £10 a go. Just then however, whole teams of waiters and waitresses started pouring out of the pub as if there was a fire alarm, except they were all carrying side dishes to go with the burgers. No wonder they looked puzzled when we wanted chips, there were jacket potatoes, coleslaw, whole boards full of salad, some sort of chilli salsa dip kidney bean thing which was a meal in itself. By the time we'd made a valiant attempt at all that, we could barely walk, never mind get back on a bike.

Anyway, we eventually wobbled off in the direction of York, we had to go up another big hill at Crayke. I guess eventually some of the food must have started being digested, because the pain from the food balls in our stomachs relented a bit, but then Mark and Dick started to get rucksack pain, both in their backs and also they started to get rubbed by the shoulder straps. Dick's rucksack in particular was very big and bulky, so I wasn't surprised. Seeing as I was actually more of an actual cyclist, I had panniers on my bike, so I wasn't carrying a rucksack, although for the last few miles I did carry Mark's, to give him a breather.



We got to the Minster around 5, where we were met by Ruth, and although we'd missed the Royal Wedding there was another wedding going on outside the Minster. The bride was quite a bit older than Kate, but she looked absolutely stunning and she was worthy of a Royal Wedding all to herself, but, as lycra clad middle aged men, we tried not to spoil the moment by wandering into the background of any of the wedding photos.

As I observed the wedding, and the tourists milling around, looking absolutely thrilled to be in York, and I reflected on the day, all the little villages we'd ridden through decked out in red, white and blue, I thought if there was a day you could bottle to define how great it is to be English, and living in England, this was it.

Once we'd all checked into our hotels / B&Bs and as if we'd not had enough to eat already, we then walked for about an hour into York to do that other very English thing, going out for an Indian. At the Viceroy of India.

As well as being very tall and thin, Dick the Vic has got enormous feet, and as we walked into York, I noticed he was wearing a giant pair of clown size beige shoes. Dick, where did you get those?, I said. Oh, I've been carrying them all day. I couldn't believe it. I've been on week long cycling holidays with luggage that weighed less in its entirety that just the leather in Dick's shoes. Further evidence of his amateurishness.

But there are some advantages to being a proper cyclist. Despite the fact that Dick had made a mockery of our hill climbing and then he'd cycled all day with a giant pair of shoes on his back, one thing you can't avoid as a novice is the damage done to your, how can I say politely, contact areas, if you don't have regular saddle time, and as well as the welts on his shoulders from the rucksack straps, he had some on his sitty down bits too. Not so me.

For the second time in a day, we ordered way too much food and mine came in a bucket. It was delicious except there was so much it wouldn't fit on the table, a fact which the waiter greeted with absolute apathy.

The next day we cycled from York to home, and then the day after that we cycled from home to Durham, and although those two rides had their good bits, I felt a bit stressed by the whole being the leader thing, whereas the pre-ride ride was a pressure free bonus day, and I probably enjoyed it more for that reason.

So to sum up, thank you for getting married William and Kate. Although your wedding was an irrelevance to me, the extra Bank Holiday was one of the best days out I've ever had.



I was going to put a link to this ride in a recent blog post, and I couldn't believe I'd never actually written the post I was going to post the link to, so here it is. Better late than never.

Tuesday, 21 February 2012

This is York Minster - It's not the Italian Job

The last two times I've been to York I haven't enjoyed it.  But it wasn't York's fault.  The first time I was on my way to Birmingham to get the Indian visa and the second time I was being given the runaround by those YHA jokers.  Both times York was only a stopping off point, it wasn't the point itself.

A few weeks ago I went to the Taj Mahal.  I wrote about it here.  Sometimes, when I was trying to get my head round things in India, it helped me to try and think of a parallel situation in England.  When I was at the Taj Mahal, I thought about York Minster quite a bit.  I thought about what York Minster would be like if it was given the Taj Mahal treatment.  Well, there would be a massive fence round it for a start, with metal detectors, and armed police, and you'd have to leave your handbags, packed lunches, sugar cubes and mints outside.  And you wouldn't be offered a guide.  You'd get carjacked by one about a mile outside York.  And he'd tell you 'Trust No-one, speak only to me'.  Well, in the light of the Taj Mahal experience, I went back to York today, specifically to have a look at the Minster.  I've been going there for over 30 years, but after India I had a look it with some fresh eyes today.

I parked in Thornaby, I caught the train to York, and once off the train I headed straight for the Minster.  I took a rucksack with me, but I didn't pack a guidebook for York, as I figure I don't need one.  I didn't pack any lunch either and I'd forgotten it was pancake day, so I nipped into Baileys and had some pancakes with chocolate and cream for the bargain price of £1.95.  All the staff were friendly, and the place had a nice buzz about it.  It's an unpretentious place, and it was full of fairly ordinary English people making small talk and generally talking crap about their recent purchases, and what type of cake they like.

Once I was full of pancakes, I headed for the Minster.  I decided not to go inside.  I've been in loads of times, and I didn't want to pay the entrance fee to see stuff I've seen before.  Unlike the Taj Mahal, where you have to pay to even get near it, with the Minster you can see the outside of it for free.

Mostly I walked round at the Taj Mahal, but I did sit down on part of it at one point, to try and soak up the atmosphere and to get some sun.  After approximately 7 minutes I got whistled at by a stroppy PE teacher type, and told to move on.  I'd read the chart with the 40 things I wasn't allowed to do before I went in, it was on display in the pointless golf cart, but I'd obviously missed the picture of my arse with a line through it.

So I just walked up to York Minster, with a rucksack, past the security that wasn't there and I went up to the entrance and sat down next to it.  I don't know much about architecture, but one thing I noticed when I sat down is that the Minster seems to be made out of rock whereas the Taj Mahal is made of marble.  My arse that I was allowed to sit on could tell the difference.  Marble is smoother.

I sat down with the intention of staying there for at least 8 minutes.  I wanted to beat my Taj record.  After 10 minutes I was still there.  No-one was whistling at me, and I felt quite peaceful, a feeling that was helped by being able to hear schoolchildren playing in the schoolyard nearby.

After 15 minutes some Geordies came out, complaining about the entrance fee.  You should try the Taj Mahal, I didn't say.  I saw some Chinese people taking photographs, and then some people from the Middle East.  And I wondered how far people had travelled to be there.  And I thought of my bike ride here last year.  Today I came on the train, but this is somewhere I can ride my bike to in a day.  And I felt grateful for that.  Much as I did, when I was stood outside here last April with Stephen, Mark, Dick and Ruth.  This is on my doorstep I thought.  It's not a tortuous 5 hour taxi ride away, past men with monkeys on sticks and horrible service stations.  It takes me less time than that to ride here.  Brilliant  And it's in the middle of York, not Agra.  Even better.

20 minutes.  More people coming out.  Lots of people discussing not only the weather but the weather forecasts.  Some guy from Yorkshire coming out laughing about how his wife had nearly put some bloke's eye out with a brolly, some Welsh people going in.  No children approached me trying to sell me miniature York Minsters.  There's a shop over there selling tourist stuff, but the shopkeeper appears to be staying in the shop there.  She's not shoving York Minsters up my nose.

25 minutes.  People keep coming out, mostly very quietly, as if they got something out of it.  Not talking much, zipping up coats and taking a few more photos.  Cyclists going past all the time, some with panniers so big they might be full of semtex, but then again probably not.  The risk must be low.  I just walked up here with a rucksack.  It could have been full of polos.  No-one cared.

30 minutes.  I have a look around.  I'm having trouble finding any rules.  It appears I could have brought a torch or a packed lunch.  It occurs to me, that there aren't many things as English as the term packed lunch.

35 minutes.  I'm feeling pretty numb from the cold.  I take some photographs of my own head next to the Minster.  I've got loads of photos of me and York Minster, but I want some more to compare with the ones from the Taj.  I'm pleased to discover these are still on my camera, so I look at one and then the other.  I want to show someone the pictures of me at the Taj, but I'm not sure anyone would care.

The next thing I see.  A beautiful Indian family wearing duffle coats and woolly hats are stood shivering on the steps while the dad takes some photos.  A mum and dad with a young girl in a pushchair, and two grandparents.  The grandmother has a limp and is walking with some difficulty, but like Indians do she just gets on with it, placidly and without making a fuss  On the way in to the Minster, the mother tells her daughter to be quiet inside, because it's a church.  They don't come straight back out, so I guess they must have paid the entrance fee.  And I remember what I loved about India.  It wasn't the buildings.  It was the people.  As for me, I went to the Taj Mahal, I stood in the sun and took some photos, and now I'm back home sitting next to an Indian family freezing outside York Minster and they're taking photos.  The circle is complete.

40 minutes.  By now I've got an ice cream headache, but no-one has tried to move me on.  Just like yesterday and my aborted bike ride across the country, it's only the bloody English weather that's causing me any problems.

After 45 minutes I figure I've proved my point.  I go and buy hot coffee at Starbucks and look out the window at the Minster some more, and not for the first time since I got back from India, I love England and I love being English.  After a while someone calls me by name.  At first I don't recognise her as she's wearing a hat but then I realise it's Louise Amende, and for half an hour or so we have a very pleasant and unexpected chat, about lots of things including India, China, the church youth hostel weekends and pancake races.  She'd seen me in the window.

After she's gone I go back to a shop I'd seen called One and buy Ruth an ethically sourced purse with hearts on as a late Valentine's present.  I photographed the shopfront earlier.  After being in a country where I couldn't even tell where the shops were, in York you can see them from miles away.  And a lot of them have not only beautiful shopfronts, but beautiful handwritten signs and blackboards telling you what's on offer today.  Shopping has never been easier.

I do another couple of laps of the Minster, and out the side door pops the same Indian family I saw earlier.  The mother opens a bag of sweets and they all take one.  I can't resist.  I cross the road and ask them if they're from India.  Yes, they say, from Chennai in the south.  I tell them I've just been to Delhi, and that I enjoyed it.  They have that wary look of people who can't tell if the person in front of them is a nutter with an agenda or just a benign someone wanting to wish them well.  It's a look I'm familiar with, because I recently wore it myself every day for a couple of weeks.  I tell them I don't want to disturb their day, I just wanted to say hello.  Somehow I feel connected to them, but I'm not sure they feel it too.  The mother thanks me for my good wishes, and I leave them to it.  I don't ask to have my photo taken with them.  The last time I tried that with an Indian family was at the parliament buildings in Delhi, and today was too cold for those kind of protracted negotiations.

So that was my day at York Minster.  It took me an hour each way to get there.  And I can go back whenever I want.  Apart from being a world famous historical building which people from all over the world come to see, it wasn't at all like the Taj Mahal.  It's York Minster, it's not the Italian Job.

On reflection, I'm sure there are good reasons why security is tight at the Taj Mahal.  Or at least, I'm open to the possibility that there might be good reasons.  At the very least I hope that behind all the nonsense there are at least some good intentions at work.  As with all things Indian, I never did really get the hang of the reasons for things.  

And maybe the goings on at the Taj Mahal only look farcical to me because I can walk up to York Minster whenever I want, with a rucksack full of anything, and people can cycle past it with panniers full of anything, and no-one even notices.  There's not a fence round it, I don't need someone to buy a ticket for me and take me for a ride in a golf buggy to get there and no-one searches me on the way in.  When I get there, I can sit down for as long as I want without getting whistled at, and no-one tries to sell me anything.

And today that meant more to me than ever.